Breakaway Destination Guides (International)

Mzima. The word means "alive". Yet the life of Kenya's Mzima Springs is largely born of ash and dung. Cool and shallow, a shaded spring offers buoyant relief to a herd of ponderous hippos, one of four groups that loll all day in the protected waters of Mzima's three main pools.

Mzima. The word means 'alive' Yet the life of Kenya's Mzima Springs is largely born of ash and dung. In the neighbouring Chyulu Range stand porous peaks of volcanic ash, whose youngest cones formed about 500 years ago.

These crystal clear pools are a favourite hangout for hippos and crocodiles. You need to go early to avoid the rush of tour buses, but you won't be disappointed by the peace which is disturbed only by the birds and monkeys. The main attraction is a submerged viewing tank which was designed so that people could watch the hippo's antics underwater, but since it was built the hippos have retreated shyly to the other side of the pool.

The good news is that you get a great view of the fish. The underground water that feeds the pools filters up through the volcanic rock of the Chyulu Hills and it is linked by pipeline to Mombasa, supplying most of the town's water.

Mzima Springs and the Shetani Lava Flow

Volcanic eruptions are still the subject of stories among the local people who speak of fire and evil spirits. The magnificent Shetani lava flow and caves are only 200 years old and it is well worth investigating, but you need to be extremely cautious if you plan to explore the caves - and you must take a torch. Chaimu lava flow has a walking trail which is fun, but the brittle black lava is not very stable and is bare of plants.

It is possible to climb up to the crater rim, but it is very hard work. Also remember that the animals of Tsavo are not fenced in and you do not want to disturb any sleeping animals with big teeth, while caving.

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